Before leaving we spent some time with the newest member of the family. Young Ted is already a month old and doing all the right things, growing taller and putting on weight. Tahlia is a terrific Mum; looks like she's been doing this for years but in truth can't believe the change in her life over the last month. No one can really prepare you for the changes in thoughts and priorities until you have a child of your own and she and Luke are taking it all in their stride (though Luke was a little under the weather on that day as his footy club won a premiership flag the day before and he had helped them celebrate). It is lovely that they live so close by and we can drop in for cuddles.
Leaving Darwin late meant we could slip in one last sunset viewed from the upper deck of the Surf Club. Mother Nature really turned it on and then when we were departing she was drenching the city with more heavy rain. The wet season is late this year and causing the usual havoc but badly needed and much appreciated just the same.
Mon 16th Mar
We didn't get much sleep on the leg to Melbourne but stretched the legs and had some breakfast there while we waited for the connection to Launceston. With so many flights cancelled due to the Covid19 virus we are glad to be arriving on time for our pickup and trek departure date. We start walking tomorrow. The Crispies are joining us from South West Rocks and Peter and Maggie from Benidgo. That second pair were actually on the same flight from Tullamarine. Luckily we are not rushing to catch this last leg as Eric failed the Explosive Trace Detection test at check-in and had to be retested. When he failed that as well he had what you would call a rather invasive pat down before they eventually released him to join me in the departure lounge. I wished I had taken a photo of him with his new intimate buddy. The whole terminal was quiet with so many people electing not to travel or have had work related journeys cancelled.
Just as that time was beginning to drag Peter, Eric and I took a walk to stretch our legs. Maggie was happy to sit and mind the bags and do some sketching. By happenstance we came across a whiskey distillery in one of the original hangars just a 5 min walk through the carpark. Angus the guard dog pictured below welcomed us into the hangar which is the oldest aviation building still standing on site. It was home to Holymans, ANA and later Ansett Airways. In the image below I am sitting on Ansett aeroplane seats and a suspended blackboard lists the local freight deliveries once they were unloaded.
Next leg was a 2.5 hr minibus trip through Sheffield to Discovery Park on the edge of Cradle Mountain - Lake St Clair National Park. On board were the 10 members of our party and Josh, the 2IC and Paul the company owner. Along with the 6 of us who already know each other there is also Lee and Ian from Townsville and Melissa and Tash from Bendigo. The road became windy and slow as we made our way up and we passed the result of a dreadful accident with many police and ambulances in attendance. By the look of the car though you wouldn’t expect any survivors. Very sobering.
Once we had been allocated rooms in the lodge everyone assembled and gear was distributed by Ben, our group leader. Paul had driven up with all our food and packs they provide. We were allocated everything other than our clothes and personal toiletries. Pack, torch, airbed, sleeping bag and sheet, weather proof jacket and pants, fleecy jacket, gaiters, gloves and wet weather mittens, crocs and even chocolate, nuts and muesli bars. All really good quality.
Once we had finished packing we reassembled in the community kitchen for dinner which Ben and Josh cooked for us. Salad and baked salmon with some Tassie bubbly, dessert to follow. The standard of the meal suggested we were going to be well looked after.
Eric and I haven't really slept for 2 days so we hit the sack quite early.
Tue 17th Mar
Beginning at the iconic Cradle Mountain and ending at Australia’s deepest lake – Lake St Clair, this 65 kilometre, six-day trek will take us through the heart of the Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park, part of the magnificent Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area. We felt very privileged to be there.
Distance 0km Elevation 870m Overland Track Start – Ronny Creek.
This was followed by a very steep, ascent to Marion's Lookout, some of it on hands and knees for me. This is the steepest section of the track and a chain is installed to help walkers. Thankfully the views of Dove Lake and Cradle Mountain were worth the effort and I was feeling very pleased the toughest section was done and dusted.
After a lunch break we walked on, the track following the contours around the side of Cradle Mountain to the headwaters of Fury Gorge. Ben had raced ahead and by the time we arrived the billy was hot enough for us all to enjoy a hot drink of our choosing in the shelter of the rocks and forest. On the next section the prominent Barn Bluff towered above, a mountain 14 m taller than the summit of Cradle Mountain.
We came across an emergency safety dome where the track divides again for those doing the Lake Rodway Route. Then our track traced the rim of the Cradle Cirque where the terrain drops steeply to your left.
The track then became very uneven and my knees began to complain but the scenery helped distract me, before at last we descended into Waterfall Valley.
Distance covered 10.7km Elevation 1040m Waterfall Valley hut and campground
Our tents were set up on wooden platforms with chains or nail holding points strategically placed instead of needing tent pegs. We were sheltered by a stand of Myrtle Beech trees with a babbling brook just a stone's throw away.
At this point Ben explained to us how clever the possums and currawongs are at raiding your packs to extract your nibbles. Possums will be very brazen at night and the currawongs have even learnt to undo zips! Best to keep your pack inside the tent. We've seen wombats and wallaby today, the pademelon wallabies are stocky with very short forelimbs and extremely thick fur compared to the lean Agile variety of the Top End. Something attempted a raid on our tent overnight but they were easily deterred.
Wed 18th Mar
After managing the most difficult section of the track yesterday, today we would tackle the easiest section from Waterfall Valley to Windermere. But first we enjoyed a hearty breakfast of porridge and the opportunity to sit on a pedestal composting toilet. The big spaceship shaped collection vessels are flown in and out by chopper.
Along the way we learnt more about the trees. Here we are with another variety of Pandanus, the King Billy Pine and Tasmanian Snow Gum.
Some of the moss and fungi here are amazingly colourful and make everything a bit magical. Quite and enchanted landscape in the dense mossy undergrowth. It's tough in sections but so many rewards. We do appreciate how lucky we are to be here when the rest of the globe is reeling from the spread of the Covid19 virus. Here there is no news and no mention of it.
Because the weather looked inclement Ben made the early call to skip the usual lunch break at Lake Will as it is a very exposed area, and instead we took an early side trip to a waterfall off the official trail. This was a really pleasant spot but involved quite a scramble first down and then up again and the rain had started.
Back on track, it stayed mostly flat, with some ups and downs through open forest and button grass. You have to keep reminding yourself to look up or look back to see where you have been, it is so easy to just watch where you are putting your feet.
We reached the turn off to Lake Will. Ben was right again, by now the drizzle had set in for the day and lunch out here would have been miserable.
From Lake Will, the track climbed gently up a ridge, with views of lakes all around. We pushed on to our final destination, Windemere. While it continued to rain it was not cold although at times the gusts of wind would knock you sideways, threatening to push you off the boardwalk. More often than not this is elevated above trickling streams and your landing would be soft but sadly soggy.
Eric left me for dead as the path broke up over the last section and I slowed right up. I could walk all day on boardwalk or gravel trails but once the track becomes uneven rocks or criss-crossing tree roots I am not very agile.
The group dribbled into camp, the rain still falling, and I was glad to find that Eric had already erected our tent. After lunch I holed-up in the tent with my knees elevated while others went to the hut (which is not really for our use) to play cards.
Very damp but no wind so we are lucky not to be chilled. Perfect weather for these little blighters!
By the time dinner was ready the rain had cleared. We are certainly eating well although I do miss a plunger coffee. Everyone in the group is getting on really well. Apart from Smiths, Crisps and Peter and Maggie there are sisters Melissa and Tash as well as Ian and Lee from Townsville. Our guides are Ben and Josh (first time on the Overland for him).
Distance covered 18.5km Elevation 1000m Windermere hut and campground
Thursday 18th Mar
Overnight Eric needed to get up for a call of nature and had trouble getting out of the tent. Now with my crook knees this is not unexpected, but he was suffering from headspin. He eventually steadied and then went back to sleep but worse was to come. We woke to a beautiful sunrise and blue sky morning.
Eric struggled to get up and couldn't face food or the thought of moving. Ben asked him to go for a short walk which he could only manage with a walking pole and constant stops even on the boardwalk. We all continued to eat and pack , everyone offering to help carry his gear for us etc. One member of the party had tablets for vertigo with her and Eric took one but with no effect. Once an hour had elapsed Ben asked Eric to walk again, this time with the challenge of stepping onto a rock which Eric missed and promptly fell over. This was the signal he needed to make the call.
Josh had to run several kms back along the track to a high point where reception was possible and he called the rescue helicopter. We were so fortunate the skies were clear and it turned out the chopper was already in the air from Hobart as another walker at our destination for tonight, Pelion, had already made a call for evacuation. Once Josh returned, the rest of the group set off and Josh Eric and I waited. If there was room for me to travel with Eric in the chopper then that was my preferred option. If not, Josh and I would set out to catch up (smirk) with the group somewhere along the 16 kms to Pelion. While I wanted to complete what I had set out to achieve, I certainly preferred to be with Eric and my knees were happy to sacrifice the goal if they had to (second smirk).
Before long we heard the unmistakable sound of the approaching chopper. The paramedic assessed Eric and gave him a shot of Stemetil. The decision was made to medivac him to North West Hospital in Bernie, refuel, then return to take the other walker on to Hobart which is where they are based. This meant I could go too. Thank goodness.
I got to sit in the front and had a great view of the national park and could follow the trail we had been following for the last 2 days. Eric was in the back with the paramedic in case he needed further intervention en route. We caused quite a stir at the hospital as they rarely receive chopper rescues.
After assessment (and repeat episodes of Pooch Perfect) Eric was discharged. We solved the immediate problem of no personal possessions by the hospital providing us with free bus transport to Devonport. The Wilderness Experience Company have their base there. Only one problem remained, the owner is the only one with a key to the lock-up where our gear is stored. He is presently delivering a food drop to our group and wont be back in town until after 6pm tomorrow.
Fortunately we were able to use Google Pay for a room at the Barclay Hotel and they provided solutions for us for dinner and to wash a load of clothes in the morning. Then it was just a waiting game until we could access our gear. No wallets, no reading glasses for me, no street clothes.....
By coincidence we found this link referring to Eric though he is 10 yrs younger apparently
https://www.theadvocate.com.au/story/6687602/bushwalkers-rescued-from-overland-track/Fri 19th and Sat 20th Mar
Eric is definitely improving day be day though still has bouts of woosiness. We passed the time taking walks along the coast, watching daytime TV and catching up on news of the Covid19 virus (very few cases here and in the NT).
While we feel very safe here, we are made more confident by the Tassie Govt closing the borders. So much is still up in the air initially but as time passes it all closes down. Firstly we learn that our next trek on the 3 Capes Walk has been closed. Now there is no longer any need to wait until April 6 to fly home however we cannot get hold of Webjet to discuss flight changes yet. They are only dealing with flights due to take off in the next 24 hrs. Next news we learnt was that the NT has also closed its borders as of Tue 24th at 4pm so we are now expecting to have to self isolate for 14 days when we do eventually get home. Oh joy, still we are so much better off than some.
Sun 22nd March
Paul collected us in the morning and with everyone's luggage on board, we went to meet the rest of the walkers at Lake St Clair. Unfortunately it was raining so we missed the opportunity for a group photo at the end point.
Instead everyone made their way to the open fire in the log cabin and then sorted out their gear. The guides made lunch and we headed back towards Launceston, eating our sandwiches along the way.
Very quickly the group dispersed and it was all over.
We shared a house with Peter and Maggie and the Crisps and once we had wifi we discovered we could book new tickets home early tomorrow morning. We were ready to enjoy a few relaxed days with the present company but the idea of not being able to leave the house for 2 weeks is not exciting. We are off.
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