One of the last things to do before heading to the airport was to put that automatic reply in my work email. While it used to feel so satisfying, on this occasion I have to admit I did so with some sense of loss. I love my job and will miss so much that transpires in the farm over the next 4 weeks. I recently attended a one day Stephanie Alexander Kitchen Garden Workshop and that has further inspired me with ways to enhance the experiences for students at our farm. One of the highlights for me was meeting a woman who helped set up the farm garden at Alawa Primary 12 years ago. Emma had so much knowledge to share about endemic food plants of the region and seasonal harvesting about which I am keen to learn more. I met up with her afterwards and offered a plot of ground in our native plants area for a workshop she is running in a few weeks. While it didn't turn out to be suitable, she did arrange for us to be nominated for sponsorship for National Tree Day through Greening Australia so we will get our plot rehabilitated, it just means we have to provide the labour. Bit cheeky that I am now running off on holidays.
On the other hand, we are off to explore new destinations together with treasured friends and get a feel for this house exchange idea which we might subscribe to ourselves one day. Jenni and Glenn are old hands at the house swap arrangement by now having enjoyed holidays in a number of different locations since signing on a few years ago and enjoying holidays in places like Majorca, Turkey and a canal boat on the canals in England to name a few. They have the flexibility of being able to pack up and travel in their caravan, when it suits them, to make their own home available so the swaps don't have to be synchronous. In this case the Austrian and French homeowners where we will be staying have already had their holidays in Wamberal on the NSW Central Coast. We feel very privileged to be invited along for these legs of their itinerary which also includes Italy and Slovenia.
When Franz took leave I completed a few of his hours to keep the place looking at its best but was only too happy to hand over to John as mowing ovals and soccer grounds is quite mind-numbing in contrast. It is good to be leaving the farm in such capable hands. Yve has no trouble keeping herself busy while John is currently employed and has applied for her new ochre card to work with children so she can volunteer in the weeks ahead. She and Eric shared in the production of delicious meals to sustain the hard workers in between her regular bike rides and knitting projects. Eric was also at the school twice this week filling in for absent teachers, helping to extend our holiday budget. I get the distinct feeling he doesn't enjoy that role as much as I do mine.
John and Yve arrived and parked their van in our backyard almost a week before we left. It was so lovely to have their company again through the week as John shadowed me around the farm when I worked and also stood in for the groundsman at the school who has suddenly gone on leave after an injury sustained using the whipper snipper. I use the mower at the farm, which I find is quite like riding the dodgem cars at the show. It only takes about half an hour to mow and it is a once a week novelty with lots of fixed objects you must navigate around. At least you are supposed to.
Ali will be very happy to have the company of Yve and John too. This week we have all enjoyed watching the pair of bar shouldered dove's eggs hatch in the palm tree right beside the veranda. They progressed from damp little bodies, with what appeared to be oversized beaks, to fledglings that could stand and appeared to be ready to take off at about the same time as us.
The morning of our flight was pretty hectic with a number of last minute things to get done. Sitting on the tarmac I decided to read the inflight magazine but found that by the time we had taxied to the runway my eyelids were drooping and I gave in and napped until we were served a meal two hours later. Then I watched as we crossed the sparkling Timor Sea, the skies dotted with light cloud which then became thicker as we approached islands of Indonesia. From this viewpoint the development of a growing economy is clear to see with many new roads and shiny roofs and the land between covered in a uniform green, like moss. It reminded me of the moss stitch scarf Yve is currently knitting but unfortunately for the local wildlife it represents hectare upon hectare of palm oil. At that point my mind was much clearer and I was able to disengage from all things farm. It was time to think of colourful European markets, affordable wine, quaint old village squares, monumental city palaces, stone bridges, wrought iron trellises and hills (and then of course in Austria which is our first destination there are the beer halls and lederhosen)..... Eric will be pleased once he realises. He thinks I have become a bit obsessed which is probably not far from the truth. Ok, it is the truth.
We had 3 legs in our journey to Graz, the capital of the Styrian region of Austria; first to Singapore which felt quite strange arriving to transit rather than returning home as we have done for 5 years, then on to Munich and finally Graz. As we get older we are thinking we might have to start planning stopovers as our brains get addled with lack of sleep and changing time zones. This became very evident when Eric began looking for a beer at Munich airport until I reminded him it was only 7am local time.
Arriving in Graz airport, we were met by Jenni and Glenn who have access to the car which is packaged with the exchange. Glenn drove us back to the house, which is really two modern apartments in a block built on the site of a pre-existing castle (or schloss as they are locally referred to). The owners are Herta and Richard Kaan who live in a large one on the top floor where they can section a bedroom and en suite off for visitors such as us, and Jenni and Glenn have another on the ground floor where we can share the kitchen and lounge etc. Coincidentally, John Moriarty has been staying on exchange here too and they all had dinner together the night before we arrived. To get between the two apartments we need to walk through the original castle foundations which have been conveniently converted into vast storage lockers (but oh it is cold to walk around down there in the early morning). It was an early night and the bed felt absolutely wonderful though it will take some time to get used to the European custom of sleeping under only a quilt without a top sheet. The views aren't too bad from our top level patio.
Sunday 21st May
Guten Morgen - Good Morning
Waking to the sound of the town clock chiming at 7am set the scene for our holiday to truly begin. No need to rush though, we are going to fit into the Munday's schedule which features late morning starts, brunch followed by an excursion then planning and preparing dinner. We think we can cope. We'd all agreed the night before to take the tram and then make our way up Schlossberg, the city's former fortified hill in the heart of the old city. The tram took us to Hauptplatz, the main square of the city. The old town was added to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1999 due to the harmonious co-existence of typical buildings from different epochs and in different architectural styles. It is one of the best-preserved city centres in Central Europe. The square is dominated by the City Hall known as the Landhaus, the building where the federal state parliament of Styria resides, with its arcaded inner courtyard and the Archduke Johann Fountain. A recently used May Pole still stands in the square, I had no idea they were so tall. Also facing the square is the painted facade of Herrengasse No. 7 and Luegghaus with its elaborate stucco facade which now houses the Swarovski outlet.
We walked the short distance to Karmeliterplatz square. The two of us took the 260 stairs although there is a funicular train and a lift to choose from as well. We both felt we needed a bit of exercise after all those hours of sitting. The path took us in a zig zag course through hanging gardens and to the foot of the 300 year old clock tower. It is a curiosity in itself since the hour hand and minute hand are the wrong way around. We met up with The Mundays and then wandered around the leafy gardens and buildings that remain. Legend has it that the locals repelled Napoleon's attacks 11 times and only conceded defeat after a deal was struck that the bell and clock towers would not be destroyed. The massive Hackher Lion statue stands overlooking the old town representing the heart of the locals' resistance. We had lunch overlooking the sea of red tiled roofs below and I had my first aparel spritzer. The serves of both were huge and we all soon felt like a siesta as we sat in the warm sun with just enough of a breeze to keep it comfortable. To return we took one of the many walking trails that led us back to the steps, but first into another tiny bar snuggled between the rocks of the steep hill, and then descended to the old town.
All shops are closed on Sunday's here so we just ambled along with the locals in the quiet streets which are an easy blend of traditional buildings with wrought iron trims or fancy plaster facades and ultra modern structures like the new modern art gallery. We found our way to the Mur River which is very shallow and fast flowing here so has no boating traffic. The Murinsel is an unusual landmark that sits in the river. It takes the form of a floating shell and houses temporary exhibitions and a cafe. Linked by footbridges to either bank, we took a wander through then made our way home for a dinner of whatever could be found in the fridge since the shops were closed. Never fear, we didn't go hungry, or thirsty for that matter.
Monday 22nd May
Danke - thank you
Danke schon - thank you very much
After booking onward flights to Paris and accomodation together in Giverney for 2 nights we made our way back into town to complete a self guided walking tour of the old town. The tram network with its 8 lines makes travel around town very easy and it is only a very short walk from our apartment to the Hospital stop on line 7. Today's walk began at the tourist information centre and took us past all the focal points between the squares and palaces. But first things first, now the shops are open we can buy sim cards for our phones as we are finding wifi alone insufficient.
Cobblestones and bright red roof tiles dominate the city and are the legacy of the Italian builders who lived and worked in Graz for centuries. We began in the courtyards of the Landhaus with its lovely wrought iron embellished well. Next we found the oldest parish church, which turned out to have surprisingly modern fixtures, but Jenni was able to explain that with some important elements missing, it appears to no longer be consecrated.
As we wander, we often see local women wearing the traditional dirndl and men in lederhosen and they dont look out of place between the business suits and daggy tourists on the streets lined with all these impressive facades. Not that I am suggesting you look daggy in the image below Jen.
The city's imperial past as a residence for the Habsbergs explains the castle complex we visited yesterday but also the gothic cathedral and King Ferdinand II's mausoleum, together known as the Stadtkrone.
We managed to be finishing a late lunch in a cafe right in the Glockenspielplatz square as the two carved wooden figures dressed in traditional costume danced to the sound of the glockenspiel. After a quick lap of the city park we finished up at the Burg (castle complex), which has an amazing Gothic double staircase, built by Emperor Frederick III because the old castle on the Schlossberg was too small and uncomfortable. The Burg remained the residence of the Inner Austrian Court until 1619. The double spiral staircase which must have been quite a challenge for the craftsmen who created it as it did my head in just trying to take a picture that showed the design. Weary by now we made our way to the spectacular opera house, the Opernhaus, the principal venue for opera, ballet, and operetta performances. It is the 2nd largest opera house in Austria. standing beside it is the steel 'Sword of Light ' sculpture. We turned for home and spent the afternoon blogging or reading and had a simple pasta dish with local wine at home.
Tuesday 23rd May
Herren - Men, Damen - Ladies
Eric and I walked back to the City Park early in the morning. The forecast threatened rain so we wanted to explore while it was still fine, however as it turned out the day remained dry and mostly sunny.
After returning home we shared breakfast and headed to the farmers' market. There is a local salad known as Grazer Krauthauptel, which owes its name to the local growing area and the over 800 urban farmers who have turned the surrounding area into a patchwork quilt of fields and vineyards. We bought supplies for home cooked dinners and couldn't resist a few local specialties to supplement the pantry. Pumpkin seed oil for instance, a Styrian specialty.
The boys took the groceries home while Jenni and I perused the other stalls, then when they rejoined us we had coffee and continued on into the town centre to complete another self guided walk. This one took us across the Mur and back again. We found the lovely Franziskanerviertel (bit of a mouthful isnt it?) quarter with its sunny courtyard lined with eateries right on lunchtime. The church here belongs to the oldest monastery in the city, founded in 1239. It has a huge bell tower and beautiful lead light windows around the alter.
We wandered down Sackstrasse St, lined with fashion houses and art houses and back to Hauptplatz, the main square, to catch the tram home. We took a short detour into a local bar for an afternoon refreshment on the street. This is becoming a regular habit. Dinner at home was bratwurst on mash with red wine. How good does it get.
Wednesday 24th May
Ja - yes, Nein - no
We woke to the sound of gentle rain so cancelled the planned morning walk in the university grounds and rolled over. Actually Graz has six universities and there are over 40,000 students here, a good number of them from outside Austria - mostly from Europe but also from all other continents. Much later we took the tram to Schloss Eggenberg, a Baroque palace on the western edge of Graz and joined a tour of the state rooms then visited the coin museum and art gallery. In 2010 it was added as a another Graz World Heritage site by UNESCO. It is named after the prince who had it built, the family having bought their way into the nobility through fortunes raised as coin makers. He was a man of considerable influence in Emperor Ferdinand II's court and the palace design expressed his position of power.
Once the family heirs had died out, the palace was virtually left untouched for 200 years so it is something like a time capsule, never having been modernised with things like electricity or central heating etc. All 24 of the ornate state rooms were individually decorated with over 500 ceiling paintings illustrating world history, astrological notions, mythical creatures and characters from classical and biblical stories. The walls depicted scenes of more day to day activities of the day including hunting, gambling, garden parties and theatre. There were also 2 rooms dedicated to interest in foreign cultures, one of Japanese and the other Chinese design. The painting at the bottom below is of a gambling table. You might be able to pick the angry loser, the winner and the woman showing him her queen of hearts card. There is also a woman holding a mirror and her friend trying to see the reflection but the other player seems to have caught on that something is not quite right and holds his cards close to his chest. Lots of fun for the artist in that one.
We thought we had seen it all until we came to the magnificent planetary room. All the paintings in this room were done by the same artist. In them you find the planets and signs of the zodiac, members of the family depicted as gods of the elements, features matching hours of darkness and light, days of the week, months of the year etc. This was at the time of the introduction of the Gregorian calendar and the prince was declaring his support for the Catholic Church (after all the calendar was named after the presiding pope of the day) and these changes they were introducing which were causing great upheaval to society. It was all really fascinating and also stunning.
The coin museum gave you a glimpse into the life of a financial tycoon which created the future opportunities for his heirs. The forefather became the Master of the Mint to Emperor Friedrich III and we saw coins from ancient times until the late 18th century. Unfortunately there was no English translation in this section. The art gallery holds over 300 pieces of European art or sculptures from the Middle Ages through the 500 years to the end of the Baroque period. Not really my preferred eras but I do appreciate the opportunity to see it all in sequence.
The grounds of Schloss Eggenberg are huge and we only walked a small area of them but visited the Rose Mound and the Planetary Garden which was designed under the signs of the 7 classic planets, before heading back through the massive shady trees to the gate. Even the burls on the trees are massive.
After a late lunch in town we wandered the streets and bought groceries before returning home. Jenni and Glenn are now halfway through their trip and today enjoyed a relaxing lay day having visited Schloss Eggenberg before we arrived. I cooked dinner. Yes, you read that right. Meanwhile they joined Herta at the opening of a portrait exhibition which they enjoyed once the opening speaches (all in German of course) were over.
Thursday 25th May
Bitte - please
Today is a public holiday for Ascension Day and being a Thursday many workers will take an extra day and make it a long weekend to travel around the continent. Eric went for an early morning walk in City Park again but I chose to roll over. After breakfast Glenn drove us through town and out along the South Styrian Wine Route. Once we left town on the autobahn it took no time to reach the village of Gamlitz nestled in the stunningly beautiful hills. There are vineyards as far as you can see and since they are all small family businesses the hills are dotted with charming, neat homes and guest houses which offer tastings and a meal at very reasonable prices. The roofs are all steeply pitched so the snow doesn't lay too thick in winter and the tiles are specially designed to allow for warm air to escape and help melt it and to stop huge slides. Each home has a massive stack of wood on hand. Arriving in Gamlitz we called in at the local church which has one of the most ornate interiors of any church in a village we have seen. Just as we arrived the service for first communion was finishing and once the youngsters (all dressed in white) went out for photos, the very well-dressed crowd spilled out through the doors, many in traditional dirndls and lederhosen. It was a colourful community gathering on the street, all being plied with wine and cakes. Beside the church stood a May pole and just beyond we discovered the mausoleum of the Eggenburg family.
Jenni and Glenn toured the wine route with Herta last week so after a short, picturesque detour they were able to find their way back to Schloss Gamlitz where we enjoyed a bottle of local Sauvignon Blanc with our meal and a glass of muskateller to finish. The place is 450 years old which explains why the courtyard where we sat had a very rustic feel. Our waiter Anton was very helpful and the owner was very generous in sharing stories of wine preservation. Both wines we tried were very nice so we bought a bottle of each home.
Glenn was our dedicated driver and we proceeded to wend our way along the windy roads between some of the highest vineyards in Europe. I am certainly glad I wasn't asked to drive a tractor between the rows. We were intrigued by the klapotetz we often came across, a wooden wind driven wheel that clatters loudly in order to scare the birds away from the vines. I'm not sure how effective they are though, because a number of farms are using netting as a back up.
With the sun streaming in the window and after a complete meal I was beginning to doze in the back seat when we pulled up at the next guesthouse for more food and wine. A day of indulgence to be sure. We sat down to a shared platter of cold cuts, cheese and pickled vegetables to nibble on as we tried another muskateller. Once again we weren't disappointed and we left with another brown paper bag. Parked in the carpark was a tiny fiat bambino of about the same vintage as me! Glenn safely navigated us home and we all agreed there was no need to rush about rustling up dinner.
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